Posted: Jun 24, 2008 at 11:12pm
Hi Here is a good read for Goldwell... (previously posted)
Shades & Tones - Goldwell Master Palette of Color
Many people can have the same level of hair, without having the same
haircolour. For example, one head of hair might be a natural level 6
with red highlights, and another may be a natural level 6 with no red
or warm highlights. Goldwell uses a lettering system to determine the
shades and tones found in the hair. The letter relates directly to the
base color within the shade. These shades each have a special function,
explained below.
N - Natural Tones - The base of the natural series is a natural brown
made from a combination of yellow, red and blue at each level.
Therefore the darker levels have more blue, and the lightest levels
have less blue, causing yellow to be more dominant. However they still
appear as lighter and darker browns. The natural tones fulfill a very
special task; they give optimum grey coverage.
A - Ash Tones - The base of ash is blue. very few that their Blue is
used to counteract orange. Alone, the ash tones will not cover grey,
but they can be mixed with the natural series (N) for grey coverage.
Whenever maximum control or orange is desired, the strength of a
blue-based ash will counteract the orange, creating natural looking
brown. The use of a blue base gives the best control of orange tones
without producing an undesirable greenish cast, common with green or
blue-green based ash tones.
NA- Natural Ash - These shades are a combination of the natural and ash
tones. They are combined in an approximate 2 parts N to 1 part A
series. The NA series cuts down on mixing and controls unwanted warmth,
while covering up to 60% grey.
P - Pearl Tones - Pearl tones are a blue-violet based series. They are
responsible for controlling the common problem of unwanted gold or
brassiness in blonde hair. Gold is a tertiary color of a yellow-orange
base. Yellow-Orange and Blue-Violet are directly opposite each other on
the Color Wheel. This means they counteract each other, creating a
natural, neutral or beige tone. The pearl series are used when lifting
to Levels 8 - 10 to prevent color from being too warm.
NP - Natural Pearl - These are a combination of the N Series and P
Series 2 parts N 1 part P. These shades cut down unwanted gold tones,
while blending grey at lighter levels. The NP Shades are also useful
for low-lights, or tint backs when the other controlling colors could
be too mattening.
G - Gold Tones - The base of the Gold Series is Yellow-Orange. Gold
tones will not optimally cover grey alone. The gold shades are fashion
colors with iridescent tones of gold. They add brightness and vibrancy
to almost any shade.
GB - Gold Beige - 2 parts Gold to 1 part Beige. Levels 9 & 10 GB
are excellent for use as toners. The GB series provides a natural
looking golden-blonde highlight. When lifting 2 or more levels and
using the GB series the gold will become much more predominant.
B - Brown Tones - This is a brown based colour with more warmth than
the N series and is more of a fashion brown than the natural tones. The
brown tones typically are used to brighten up natural haircolour
without a dramatic chance. These shades are brown with a minimal amount
of red & gold added for shine. These brown tones should be mixed
with the N series for optimal grey coverage.
K - Copper Tones - The base of copper is orange. They add rich auburn
tone, to any base level. The K tones look natural, much like a natural
redhead would look. The copper tones should be mixed with the N series
for optimal grey coverage.
KG - Copper Gold tones are 2 parts copper 1 part gold. The KG tones are
strong, exciting fashion tones which deliver vibrancy and brightness,
The copper-gold tones should be mixed with the N Series for grey
coverage.
RB- Red Brown tones 1 part red with 2 parts brown. It is ideal for
adding reddish brown highlights to dull hair. The RB shades should be
mixed with the N series for grey coverage.
R - Red Tones with a small amount of blue added to prevent the finished
result from becoming too warm. The end result will be a rich, cool
based red ideal for clients with olive skin tones.
V - Violet tones are violet based and an ideal toner after bleaching to
control unwanted yellow. The violet tones should be mixed with natural
tones for grey coverage