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 William- need pro. advice

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jj View Drop Down
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Joined: Jul 16, 2001
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Posted: Jan 12, 2000 at 5:12pm
I'm currently working with Clairol and I'm having a problem with a client.She's a natural level 4 with large amount of white hair.She wants to be a level 4 brown/red.I used 1 1/2 of a level 4n 1/2 oz. red w/ 20 vol.The roots were way too light and pink.Next time I used 1 1/4 oz level 3n 1/4 oz. level 3 red w/ 20 vol. Still too light.Could it be that I need to be using 10 vol. or do I need to go to a level 2.Any suggestions??

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William View Drop Down
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Joined: May 22, 2003
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Posted: Jan 12, 2000 at 5:12pm
> I'm currently working with Clairol and I'm having a> problem with a client.She's a natural level 4 with> large amount of white hair.She wants to be a level 4> brown/red.I used 1 1/2 of a level 4n 1/2 oz. red w/ 20> vol.The roots were way too light and pink.Next time I> used 1 1/4 oz level 3n 1/4 oz. level 3 red w/ 20 vol.> Still too light.Could it be that I need to be using 10> vol. or do I need to go to a level 2.Any suggestions??To JJ;If you have not read my article in the archives please do so and this reply will make more sense to you;When taking a level 4 'back to a level 4 that is predominantly grey/white:Remember the 'levels that you are dealing with! Your client's hair has gone through a big change!--NOT FROM YOU- but from mother nature!! As the hair greys to a 'white-grey BASE COLOR-with some of the 'old base color of level "4" left- think about it!!! Instead of a level 4 with lots of white hair you have a 'white base with a little level 4 mixed in!You have applied a level 4 color to the totally white 'new base' and it turned pink. Remember that some grey hair is very resistant to accepting color and wants to fade quicker. If a ultra pale blonde is a 'level 12' what would white hair be? Even lighter! This is the base you are working with! Review the math-- A level 12 base(positive number) minus a level 4 color that you used with 20 vol developer which lifts 1 1/2 to 2 levels gives you only about 2-3 levels of 'darkening power', and only lifts the remaining level 4 pigmented hair (the normally dark hair to about a level 6 to 8 pinkish tint. The reason it looks so pink is it is viewed against a 'white base'. Do some test strands using a very dark warm brown and you may have to mix in some black into the formula to make it dark enough with a deep dark red, probably only a 1/2 to 1 oz of the red with 1 1/2 oz dark warm brown and 1/2 to 1 oz of black to test with. Use 10 volume developer always when 'depositing only' to go darker. I can't preach it enough !!-take the time to do test strands!!!!!Please post and let me know how this turns out.william

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jj View Drop Down
Newbie
Joined: Jul 16, 2001
Location:
Posted: Jan 12, 2000 at 5:12pm
> To JJ;> If you have not read my article in the archives please> do so and this reply will make more sense to you;> When taking a level 4 'back to a level 4 that is> predominantly grey/white:> Remember the 'levels that you are dealing with! Your> client's hair has gone through a big change!--NOT FROM> YOU- but from mother nature!! As the hair greys to a> 'white-grey BASE COLOR-with some of the 'old base> color of level "4" left- think about it!!!> Instead of a level 4 with lots of white hair you have> a 'white base with a little level 4 mixed in!> You have applied a level 4 color to the totally white> 'new base' and it turned pink. Remember that some grey> hair is very resistant to accepting color and wants to> fade quicker. If a ultra pale blonde is a 'level 12'> what would white hair be? Even lighter! This is the> base you are working with! Review the math-- A level> 12 base(positive number) minus a level 4 color that> you used with 20 vol developer which lifts 1 1/2 to 2> levels gives you only about 2-3 levels of 'darkening> power', and only lifts the remaining level 4 pigmented> hair (the normally dark hair to about a level 6 to 8> pinkish tint. The reason it looks so pink is it is> viewed against a 'white base'. Do some test strands> using a very dark warm brown and you may have to mix> in some black into the formula to make it dark enough> with a deep dark red, probably only a 1/2 to 1 oz of> the red with 1 1/2 oz dark warm brown and 1/2 to 1 oz> of black to test with. Use 10 volume developer always> when 'depositing only' to go darker. I can't preach it> enough !!-take the time to do test strands!!!!!> Please post and let me know how this turns out.> williamIt will be a few weeks but I'll let you know.Thank you!
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